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Detailed Itinerary
Please note that this is a typical itinerary, and actual activities may vary to take advantage of weather conditions, local events, and to allow serendipity to play a hand in your experience. Accommodations are as outlined in the itinerary, although we reserve the right to change these should the need arise.
DAY 1
Istanbul: the Hagia Sophia and Bosphorus Cruise
City walking tour ― easy, about two hours.
We meet as a group early in the afternoon, and begin our exploration of this blend of Europe and Asia with a visit to the Hagia Sophia. Architecturally significant as the first structure in the world to support a dome atop a square edifice, the Hagia Sophia boasts tremendous historic relevance as well. Originally a church built between A.D. 532 and 537, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a mosque in 1453. During that time, the Christian wall frescoes were plastered over and remained covered until the early 20th century, when the building was converted to a museum in keeping with Mustafa Atatürk’s secularization of Turkey. The remarkably preserved wall murals now delight visitors of all religious backgrounds. Early in the evening, we enjoy a scenic cruise on the Bosphorus. This, the world’s narrowest strait, links the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara, and divides Turkey’s landmass between Europe and Asia. Our boat ride ends at a pleasant waterfront restaurant offering seafood and other specialties for our welcome dinner.
Daphne Hotel, Istanbul
DAY 2
Istanbul Immersion
City walking tour ― easy, 4-5 hours.
Today we immerse ourselves in the historic wonders of Turkey’s capital with a city tour that includes visits to the Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern, the Hippodrome, and the Blue Mosque. Topkapi Palace was the official residence of Ottoman sultans between the mid-15th and the mid-19th centuries. The immense complex is made up of four main courtyards and numerous buildings, many of which are now museums housing a range of interesting artifacts. The armory, jewelry, porcelain ware, Ottoman miniatures and calligraphic manuscripts on display offer a glimpse of Turkish history and culture. At the height of royal power, as many as 4,000 people lived in the palace grounds. At the Cistern, we explore the largest of the city’s earliest water supplies, which lies beneath the streets but is no longer used. We wander along boardwalks above the shallow water among ancient Greek and Roman statues and columns. Above ground, little is left of the 4th-century Hippodrome, but you can still see remnants of the U-shaped horse-racing track. At the stunning Blue Mosque (officially, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque), we marvel at the blue tile work adorning one of the greatest mosques built during the classical period of Ottoman rule.
Later, we’ll meander through Istanbul’s legendary Grand Bazaar, one of the largest covered markets in the world, encompassing many streets and thousands of shops. Each street features specific goods where buyers and sellers engage in the ages-old practice of bargaining for the best deals. The ancient Spice Market is also a treat for the senses. Along the way we’ll see Rustem Pasha Mosque, the first example of an octagonal-shaped mosque.
When we’ve finished exploring Istanbul’s colorful streets, we board a local street car for an expeditious ride back to our hotel. After time to relax, we meet this evening for dinner at another fine local resaurant.
Daphne Hotel, Istanbul
DAY 3
Flight to Kayseri; Transfer to Cappadocia
Hike—easy to moderate, 2-3 hours.
This morning we’ll fly to Kayseri then drive to Turkey’s Cappadocia region, arriving by lunchtime. Cappadocia is a vast area of exceptional natural wonders characterized by strangely fascinating rock formations called fairy chimneys. Our accommodations are truly unique; carved into one of these geological wonders is a cave hotel, whose appearance is reminiscent of a Dr. Suess story! The original name for the region, Katpatuka, was taken from an Old Persian word meaning “land of beautiful horses,” and the partnership between man and horse lives on here today. After lunch, we embark on a hike through Bagli Dere, or the Valley of Spears. After, we explore the Goreme Open-Air Museum, a complex of cave churches carved by monks between A.D. 900 and 1200 and featuring spectacular frescoes. The murals represent a unique Cappadocian artistic style, and the Byzantine architectural features of the churches (arches, columns, and capitals) are made more interesting because they aren’t structurally necessary. We stop by Pasabag, an area whose striking fairy chimneys capture the imagination. The stone pillars are carved from tuff, a type of rock consisting of consolidated ash ejected from vents during a volcanic eruption. This area is also known as “Monk’s Valley” because several Stylite ascetics sought a hermit lifestyle here, carving rock dwellings and also preaching atop them. Later, we’ll return to our hotel for dinner.
Kelebek Boutique Hotel, Goreme
DAY 4
Red Valley and Whirling Dervishes
Hike—easy to moderate, 3-4 hours.
Our day begins with a hike through the lunar-like landscape of Red Valley, from Ortahisar to Cavusin. Along the way, we explore hidden churches and discover more amazing frescoes that depict the early days of Christianity. Our guides describe the unique geological features of tuff cones, pillars, and the crumbling pyramid rock formations that dot the valley. After lunch and sampling some local wine, we have the opportunity to meet Turkish craftsmen ― exploring a potter’s workshop carved in a cave or a local weaving cooperative. Collecting their clay from the riverbank, Cappadocian potters create intricate designs in a range of colorful, geometric patterns. This is a great opportunity to purchase some uniquely Turkish crafts and support local producers.
By late afternoon, we return to the hotel and prepare for tonight’s sema, the sacred dancing of the Mevlevi Order of Sufis, mystical practitioners of Islam. Also known as the Whirling Dervishes, the Sufis practice these dances in order to achieve closeness to God in a ceremony they call dkir, or “remembrance.” The Mevlevi Order was founded by the 13th-century poet Jelaladin Rumi, who is widely known throughout the world for his numinous verse—love poems to God. The dances are simple yet captivating, and we are privileged to witness this sacred form of worship.
Kelebek Boutique Hotel, Goreme
DAY 5
Flight to Izmir; Ephesus
Early this morning we board a flight to Izmir, on the Aegean Sea. Depending on current schedules, we may have a short layover in Istanbul or a direct flight. We then drive to Sirince, a beautiful town whose whitewashed homes with red-tile roofs creep up the verdant mountainside. We have lunch in a café and enjoy absorbing the relaxed pace of everyday life in this community. Next, we explore the marvelous ruins of Roman baths, the library, agora, theatre, and the remains of homes and administrative complexes that comprise the city of Ephesus. Founded in the 10th century B.C., the Biblical city was an Ionian colony situated on the Aegean; however, archaeological evidence indicates that the site was occupied since the Neolithic period. We stroll down the main road, paved with white marble slabs and surrounded by beautifully carved pillars, columns, and archways. The city was once distinguished for the nearby Temple of Artemis (or the Temple of Diana), dedicated around 550 B.C. The Library of Celsus (circa A.D. 135) was built to hold 12,000 scrolls and also served as a giant tomb for its namesake, Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus. Ephesus also boasts a massive Roman theatre, which could seat 25,000 spectators. Initially, it was used for plays, but during Roman times, gladiators fought for their lives here. Evidence of a gladiator graveyard was found in May 2007. We learn more about the history of Ephesus at the museum in Selcuk, which houses a large collection of statuary and other artifacts taken from the ruined city.
This afternoon, we check in at our hotel for the night, beautifully situated on the Aegean waterfront.
Charisma Hotel, Kusadasi
DAY 6
Transfer to Marmaris; Aphrodisias
Walk ― easy, about two hours.
This morning we drive to Aphrodisias (2.5 hours), and enjoy a walking tour of this ancient city, one of the most important archaeological sites of the Greek and Roman periods in Turkey. Famous for its Temple of Aphrodite, the city had a long and prosperous run from the 1st through the 6th centuries. An enormous earthquake in the 7th century hobbled the city, which never quite recovered. Founded near a marble quarry, Aphrodisias supported a local culture of world-renowned marble sculptors; excavations have unearthed marble statues and other treasures. Many ancient monuments still stand, and our guide tells us of the rise and fall of this fascinating city. After lunch, we continue to Marmaris (about 3 hours) where we take a short walk around town before boarding our private sailingyacht, the Cavurali. This 65-foot, single-mast vessel was built in 1999 and combines comfortable accommodations with the adventure of sailing aboard a traditional tirhandil-styled boat. The hull and decksare made of teak, while the interiorboasts mahogany woodwork. Late this afternoon, set sail to a wilderness cove for dinner and our first night aboard.
The Cavurali, Turquoise Coast
DAY 7
Ekincik; Carian Cliff Tombs
Hike ― easy to moderate, 2-3 hours.
In the morning, we sail to Ekincik. We enjoy breakfast aboard, with time to take a swim in the turquoise waters. We then disembark and begin a beautiful seaside hike between the villages of Ekincik and Candir. Here, we board a riverboat and cruise up the Dalyan River to view the magnificent tombs that are the resting places of the kings of Caunus. Cut into the rock faces, the Carian Cliff Tombs included false walls behind which the kings’ treasures were kept to hide them from grave robbers. Unfortunately, the trick didn’t work and many of the tombs were looted anyway. As the day continues, we find ourselves at natural hot springs for a soak in the warm waters, and an optional natural mud treatment; the mud nearby contains minerals said to have therapeutic properties. Later, there is time to swim in the crystal-clear waters of Koycegiz Lake. As we continue our walk to Semisce Cove, we explore the ruins of Caunus, including its theatre, tombs, Byzantine church, and Roman bath. The ancient city was named for Kaunos, a Greek mythological character and son of Miletus. In Semisce Cove we meet the Cavurali for another dinner on the sea.
The Cavurali, Turquoise Coast
DAY 8
Aga Limani Cove; Lydea; Gocek Lagoon
Hike ― easy to moderate, about 3 hours.
An early morning sail brings us to Aga Limani Cove in the azure waters of Fethiye Bay, once home to the civilizations of ancient Lycia. Following breakfast and a morning snorkel—where you might see various sponges and octopi—we hike to the remote site of Lydea, stopping en route to visit with nomadic shepards for tea. The trail winds through high, rocky ridge tops covered in pine forest, and past homesteads growing aromatic herbs of oregano, thyme, and sage. Lydea was home to a time-honored Lycian Oracle, and we explore the sarcophagi, temple walls, cisterns, Corinthian columns, and inscribed tablets from the Roman and Byzantine periods. Farther along, we discover the Batik Hamam, or “Sunken Baths.” Cleopatra herself is said to have bathed here. After our hike, we’ll have a late lunch on board our private yacht before setting sail for Gocek Lagoon. Tonight, fall asleep to the sound of the water gently lapping the sides of our sailboat while at anchor in a secluded cove.
The Cavurali, Turquoise Coast
DAY 9
Gemiler Island
Hike ― moderate, 3-4 hours.
Today we sail to Gemiler Island to explore the mysterious ruins of a Byzantine monastery. We will have time to wander among the temple and basilica, learning about the settlement here and viewing some lovely mosaic remnants. Pirates were also said to have once inhabited this island as well. After lunch and some time for a swim, we take an excursion to the ruins of Affouli Nunnery perched on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. Later, discover the eerie ghost town of Kayakoy, a village of more than 600 Greek-style stone houses and churches covering the mountainside. The town was built on the site of the ancient city of Carmylessus in the 1700s. But following the Greco-Turkish War, it was abandoned due to the “population exchange” agreement between the Turkish and Greek governments in 1923. This mutually agreed upon expulsion of citizens involved some two million people who were driven from their homelands. The exchange involved Turkish nationals of the Greek Orthodox religion established in Turkey and Greek nationals of the Muslim religion established in Greece. From Kayakoy, we hike to Soguk Su Cove and meet our yacht. There is time to enjoy an afternoon swim or snorkel before dinner.
The Cavurali, Turquoise Coast
DAY 10
Burguncuk Cove; Kalkan; Xanthos; Patara
Hike ― easy to moderate, about 1 hour.
This morning we find ourselves at the wild Burguncuk Cove. Truly a hidden gem, this is a special place very few locals even know about. Sheer, 1500-foot cliffs tower above us, while Aleppo-pine studded lowlands form our cove. A cluster of unnamed Lycian and Byzantine ruins are ours to explore on this coast, hidden under the pine forest. It’s a beautiful place. Next, we cross the Seven Capes (Yedi Burun), one of the last undeveloped stretches of the Turkish Mediterannean, and reach the small seaport of Kalkan. Going ashore, we’ll take a short drive to the picturesque mountain village of Bezirgan, where we are guests at a Turkish home for a traditional lunch of delectible local cuisine. Learn more about rural life in this part of Turkey from our hosts who chat with us over the meal. This afternoon, explore the ruins of Xanthos, a Lycian center of culture and commerce, which later served the Persians, Macedonians, Greeks, and Romans who in turn conquered the city and occupied the adjacent territory. Excavations have unearthed texts written in Lycian and Greek, including several bilingual texts that were useful in deciphering the Lycian language. Continue to Patara, once a flourishing maritime city, where we can swim from the vast and deserted beach. At dusk, we enjoy a short hike through a secret Roman aquaduct to Firnazlar Cove to connect with the Cavurali.
The Cavurali, Turquoise Coast
DAY 11
Kas; Aperlae’s Sunken Ruins; Kekova; Skyrock Bay
Hike ― easy to moderate, two hours, and optional snorkeling―easy.
This morning we sail to Kas, a lovely town featuring charming boutiques and whitewashed houses clad in colorful bougainvillea blossoms. There is ample time to stroll through the village and enjoy lunch at one of the many cafés on your own. Early this afternoon, we sail to Aperlae to snorkel over ruins of the mysterious town, some of which has collapsed into the sea. Some believe the town was founded to harvest a purple dye from a species of snail found here. Our guide introduces us to Aperlae’s strange past and how its resourceful inhabitants survived in harsh conditions until the city’s abandonment in the 7th century. Next, we head for Kekova Sound; the whole Kekova region was declared a Specially Protected Area in 1990 to preserve its natural, cultural, and geographic richness. At dusk, we clamber up to the Crusader Castle—built by the Knights of Rhodes—at timeless and waterlocked Simena, for a breathtaking view of the sea below. We’ll spend about an hour hiking around Lycian sarcophagi and ancient olive trees to Skyrock Bay to meet our yacht for a final dinner aboard.
The Cavurali, Turquoise Coast
DAY 12
Myra; Ulupinar; Olympos; Return to Istanbul
Hike ― easy to moderate, 1-2 hours.
Following a swim and breakfast, we set sail again for Andriace, port of Myra, on the final leg of our voyage. Enjoy your last morning on deck with the scenery and keeping an eye out for seabirds. We disembark in Myra, the leading city of the Lycian Union, which surpassed Xanthos in early Byzantine times to become Lycia’s capital. Before leaving Myra, we take time to discover the fantastic Lycian House Tombs carved into a hillside, like an apparition seeping from the rock. The Church of St. Nicholas was named for the 4th-century bishop of Myra, though the first church wasn’t built until about two centuries later. We continue to Ulupinar, where we enjoy a farewell lunch. At nearby Olympos, we hike among the fascinating eternal fires of Chimaera, a site mentioned in Homer’s Illiad. Olympos became one of the six leading cities of the Lycian federation, and during the 1st century B.C., was invaded and settled by Cilician pirates. Though fueled by natural gas—mostly methane—seeping through cracks in the earth, the mythical Chimaera was thought to be a savage beast who spouted fire from its mouth. There may be time for a final swim at the white pebble beach here before continuing to Antalya and our early evening flight to Istanbul. We say goodbye to our guide and are transferred to the hotel. Enjoy dinner on your own this evening at one of the city’s many fine restaurants―your guide will be happy to make recommendations.
Daphne Hotel, Istanbul
DAY 13
Departure
After breakfast, transfers to the airport for homebound flights are provided as needed.