The Magic of Staying in a Japanese Ryokan in Autumn

For many Boundless Journeys travelers, the most memorable part of walking Japan’s historic Nakasendō Trail isn’t the miles covered each day. It’s arriving at a traditional ryokan while paper lanterns glow beneath brilliant autumn maples and gentle mists fade across the mountains of the Kiso Valley. 

The day’s hike is over, but another centuries-old tradition is about to begin. 

Long before hotels existed, family-run inns welcomed samurai, merchants, pilgrims, and government officials traveling between Kyoto and Tokyo.  

More than 400 years later, travelers along the Nakasendō still end their day in much the same way. 

Step Inside a Living Tradition 

At the entrance, you’ll exchange your hiking boots for slippers. 

The scent of tatami mats woven from fragrant rush grass fills the air. Sliding paper shoji screens soften the afternoon light, while a pot of hot green tea and traditional Japanese confections inspired by the colors and flavors of the season await on a low table. Every detail reflects centuries of tradition and gracious hospitality. 

You’ll soon trade your hiking clothes for a cotton yukata, the robe traditionally worn throughout the inn. Many ryokan encourage guests to wear it to dinner and to the onsen, and before long, it feels perfectly natural—though it will cause a few giggles at first. 

The Simple Pleasure of an Autumn Onsen

If there’s one experience that seems made for October, it’s soaking in an outdoor onsen.

After rising off, you’ll ease into naturally heated mineral water, surrounded by the cool air and the changing colors of autumn. Steam rises from the water as evening settles over the mountains. It’s a moment that perfectly captures this season in the Japanese Alps—the contrast of heat and cold, the quiet surroundings, and the lingering satisfaction of tired muscles from a day spent in locomotion. 

No itinerary can prepare you for this moment of pure bliss … the feeling of “ahhhhh.” 

Dinner Reflects the Season 

Still dressed in your yukata, you’ll gather for a beautifully prepared kaiseki dinner. 

Rather than choosing from a menu, a progression of thoughtfully crafted courses celebrate the region and the season. Presentation is as important as flavor. Every dish arrives with intention, turning dinner into one of the day’s most anticipated experiences. 

End the evening with a cup of warm hōjicha, a fragrant Japanese green tea roasted until it takes on a rich, toasty flavor—or perhaps a glass of locally-brewed sake. This is the typical finish to a relaxing evening before thick futons and cool mountain nights promise restful sleep. 

An Essential Part of Walking the Nakasendō 

The Nakasendō was never intended to be walked in a single push. Travelers moved from one post town to the next, stopping each evening to bathe, dine, and spend the night before continuing on the next morning. 

Ryokan lodgings were built for that purpose: a place to rest, recover and reflect. 

That’s why Boundless Journeys includes traditional ryokan throughout the itinerary. They aren’t simply memorable places to stay—they’re the essence of the Nakasendō itself.  

Walking the trail tells the story of Japan’s historic highway. Spending the night in a ryokan allows you to experience it as generations of travelers have, one charming village at a time. 

About the Author: Kristin is a former European tour leader who now develops new walking, hiking, and cultural journeys for Boundless Journeys.